In search of Hygge in Copenhagen

Hygge (pronounced hue-guh not hoo-gah) is a Danish word used when acknowledging a feeling or moment, whether alone or with friends, at home or out, ordinary or extraordinary as cosy, charming or special.

The Danish people embody this word in many aspects of their daily lives.  While the weather may often be chilly outside, many Danes can be found smiling, laughing, and drinking inside cozy bars and cafes, enjoying each others company.

By the end of our time in Copenhagen, Teal and I felt inspired by the Danish way of life, and hope to create a sense of Hygge wherever we go in the world.

We were in Copenhagen for a total of 5 nights and 6 days, but the time flew by fast.

We started things off at an airbnb in the Norrebro district of the city.  We decided to hit up a local neighborhood Ramen shop called Ramen to Biiru, a favorite spot of the locals.  The ramen was unbelievably delicious, with a spicy miso broth.  Perfect for a cold night.

After a sound nights sleep, the next morning we headed to one of the coffee shops around town to enjoy the local flavor.

With a chance to reflect on the trip so far, do some writing, and relax we tracked down one of the best brunch spots in the city at Møller Kaffe og Køkken.  They had incredible homemade bread with a cherry marmalade, and the best scrambled eggs in Copenhagen.  Notice the look on Spencer’s face as he tastes the food.

After a nice hearty breakfast it was time to head to our airbnb in Vesterbro, which would become our home for the next 4 days. The location of the apartment was perfect.  Vesterbro is an up and coming part of Copenhagen filled with restaurants, cafe’s, and trendy bars in the old meatpacking district of the city.  Upon arrival we met our new roommates Charlie the French Bulldog, and Ost the tabby cat.

The animals seemed to prefer Spencer at first, but eventually they warmed up to Teal as well.

We took advantage of the kitchen in the apartment to enjoy some lazy mornings while making eggs and coffee.  Copenhagen has some of the best bread we’ve ever tasted – we went through 3 loaves in 4 days!

After a couple days of walking around on foot, we realized that Copenhagen is a city made for bicycles.  We went out and rented two bikes for the remainder of our time there.

On a bike, you breeze through the streets alongside dozens of other bikers.  It’s easy to get from one end of the city to the other in about 20 minutes.

On friday night, we were in the mood for some good live music. We set off on an adventure to find it.

We tracked down the oldest smoky jazz bar in the city called La Fontaine.

It was a small intimate venue where you could feel the history of all the jazz and good times over the last 100 years.  We were treated to some exceptional musicians that night who didn’t stop playing until 5am.

 

After Stumbling out of the Jazz club in the early morning, we captured some of the beauty of the old city that comes alive at night.

The next day, a bit hung over but motivated, it was our mission to track down the best waffle in the city.  Coffee was a must.

We set off on our bikes along the waterfront in search of the ultimate waffle cure.

The waffle cure.

In the blink of an eye, it was our last night in Copenhagen.

We decided to end our time in the city with something special.  A visit to one of the oldest restaurants in Copenhagen, Restaurant PUK.  It’s been serving food to Danish kings since the mid 1500’s.  The restaurant was located in an entrance 10 feet below the street, as the roads had been paved over many times since it was built. It was very warm and cozy inside, with pictures of history on all the walls.

Teal had salmon with Hollandaise, and I had a veal brisket.  They were truly delicious and epitomized traditional Danish Flavors. The restaurant felt very Hygge, which was no surprise.

Just like that, our time in Copenhagen was finished.  We had some amazing food, met some great people, and definitely would come back.  Off to Portugal!